Juniper
Restaurant Altrincham - reader comments
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"I
agree with Roy of Bolton's review (below)! I'm still
shocked and angry about my first dining experience
at Juniper, which I mistakenly arranged to visit two
days ago with my step father, mother and pregnant
wife. On arrival, the plates all had a plastic spoons
on - to get at the bottom of the following amusé
course - served in plastic tumblers, as used for hospital
pills or methodone! The later amusé were also
served like this.
My starter was nice enough - a warm soup with hints
of apple and cinnamon, all whisked into a
trendy froth. Fair enough - except the chef
had clearly found a trick and used it to death. My
main course also had froth, and my dessert had froth.
As did every course that everyone else had round the
table.
Froth aside, every course seemed to have simply
involved a purée of disparate flavours, with
the main ingredient tossed in for good measure.
In the case of the main courses; this was a minuscule
portion of meat. There were no vegetables
to speak of (they were all part of the sauce) and
the only real texture in any of the courses was provided
by seeds or nuts. This was borne out by the fact that
the mains were sloppily dumped into bowls,
rather than presented on plates.
The restaurant was very hot, and
as mentioned in other reviews, no music had
a detrimental effect on the atmosphere. The
service was beyond shocking.
My wife, who is six months pregnant, was made to feel
like she was being awkward asking about whether things
were pasteurised or made with raw egg. When we spelled
out it was because she was pregnant, the waitress
said, well I assumed that before backtracking on her
rudeness. To add to an already shocking experience,
we asked if a fresh fruit salad could be prepared,
as none of the desserts were suitable for my wife.
The reply was that the kitchen had no fresh fruit!
For a start off, what about the banana with the lamb,
or the apple used in the soup, or the raspberry used
with the rice pudding? Are they all frozen then? They
couldn't be bothered! Eventually they provided some
slices of tarts begrudgingly.
The lowlight of the evening was before this, when
my wife's main arrived. My wife mentioned that she
thought the chicken was raw to the waitress, who suggested,
are you sure you don't want to try it? . Oh yes please!
We came here to spend a fortune on crap, but if you
could poison my pregnant wife into the bargain it
would be a bonus.
Plastic spoons on plates. Amusés in
Night nurse lids. Apparently no fresh fruit in the
kitchen. Starters being served in the same glasses
as puddings. Raw chicken. And froth on every sloppy
course.
This restaurant sets a new standard in being dreadful
- and dreadfully overpriced - which on the
upside, certainly raises the profiles of so many other
good restaurants in South Manchester and beyond. As
for Juniper's Michelin star; it's embarrassing - the
comparison between this and L'Ortolan, near Reading,
is laughable.
Much like the courses, Juniper is all just
froth"
- chris morley, cheshire 8/10/07 (visited on a saturday
evening) |
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"Terrific!
Definitely worthy of its' Michelin Star.
If this place was in London, it would be a "wow"
destination. Yes, it's pricey by Northern
standards; yes, the food ingredient
combinations can be a bit challenging, (take
my "Brill and Lamb" starter as an example).
But, this place is really interesting and
gives you a real experience. The chef goes
out of his way to create some great dishes. There
are plenty of decent restaurants serving up good nosh
but if you want a special experience, it's definitely
worth hitting the plastic for this one!"
-
ian, warrington 14/8/07 (visited on a saturday evening) |
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"We
enjoy modern European cuisine and had admittedly high
expectations after reading the reviews below. However,
if this is innovation if was so far over the
top that, with the exception of the main
course and cheese board, we literally wouldn't
have recognised some of the dishes as being food.
For £47 one doesn't expect to be served the
first 2 or 3 "courses" in a plastic thimble
no bigger than a medicine measuring jug. The most
amusing aspects were listening to the waiter describe
the number of ingredients they had apparently managed
to cram into a 20ml thimble and our own gullibility
in stumping up £130+ for a very dissappointing
2 hours!"
- roy, bolton 23/6/07 (visited on a saturday evening) |
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"Of
the 112 Michelin starred restaurants in the UK, it's
a travesty to think that there's only one in Greater
Manchester. Fortunately for tourists and city centre
dwellers alike, Juniper is not off the beaten track.
In fact the short 18 minute trip on the tram to Altrincham
and a 5 minute walk up the high street probably works
out a shorter journey than the walk from many a hotel
or apartment to an inferior city centre restaurant.
And boy! What a journey worth making!
Head
chef Paul Kitching is a gastronomic genius. Taking
his influences from so many different flavours and
ingredients, he is able to serve up dishes with such
a unique imagination it's impossible to pigeon hole
his style. It seems rather easy (or should that be
lazy?) to describe Juniper as being 'French' but apart
from the exhaustive choice of Burgandy's, Champagnes
and many regional fine wines from across the Channel,
the only nod to France appears to be Geremie, the
excellent French waiter, and, on my visit, two tables
of French businessmen enjoying the amazing set menu.
And whilst the French would be very proud to call
Juniper one of their own, there's little on the menu
they could identify with. That's where Paul comes
into his own - his creations are so unparalleled,
no other top chef dare try copy for fear of falling
far short.
The
6 course 'Early Summer Herbs' menu on offer the day
we visited was incredible. Add an extra 2 courses
which came 'with compliments from the kitchen' and
it's impossible to argue that you're not getting your
£35's worth. For me, the breast of chicken with
chives and coriander glaze complete with dill Mayonnaise,
black olives, courgettes, chicory and parsley dusted
new potatoes was worth the price of the full meal
alone - it was quite simply the finest chicken I've
ever tasted.
As
with many 'French' restaurants, and especially Michelin
starred ones at that, quality rules quantity every
time. This approach works perfectly with the set meals
at Juniper as each dish is just about small enough
to leave a little bit of room for another round of
even more artistic delights from the kitchen. The
journey your tastebuds are taken on constantly changes
direction and the extraordinary flavours that are
delivered can not be put into words. How do you describe
the unexpected delights that Paul can somehow produce
from a Chervil, White Chocolate and Sea Salt Ice-Cream?
A very brave chef indeed who is complimented with
an excellent team.
Katie,
his partner and Juniper's manager, takes time out
with each customer over pre-prandials in the wonderful
basement bar before handing you over to the excellent
waiting staff who whisk you upstairs to the intimate
luxurious restaurant upstairs. A special mention to
Geremie, who has to be one of the best waiters in
Manchester even if his Gallic sense of humour isn't
at first obvious as he indentifies each region and
fromagère represented in the huge assiette
of French and Swiss cheese - there's no better way
to upset a proud Frenchman than by asking him which
one is the Cheddar.
With
Paul Kitching's amazingly innovative dishes, outstanding
service and a wine list to match, Juniper is certainly
a restaurant of a quality not matched elsewhere in
the region - and that's exactly why, for the tenth
year running, they are the only Michelin starred establishment
around these parts!"
- neil, Manchester Restaurants 15/6/07 (visited
on a thurs evening) |
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"I
will go as far as saying this is the best
restaurant I have been to - and I've been
to quite alot of award-winning restaurants around
Europe!!! Everything was just perfect.
All the waiters were very friendly
and the food was just out of this world.
We had a set menu of 5 courses and we got 2 complimentary
dishes from the chef on top. Each dish is
small and we didn't feel ready to 'burst'
when we were finished with all the 7 (!!) courses.
I'll definitely be returning here!"
- amy, manchester 14/6/07 (visited on a tuesday evening) |
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