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"Despite
all the hype and PR that surrounds each new multi-million pound
restaurant opening in Manchester, the coveted Michelin star is still
elusive from any city centre establishment. The French at the Midland
is certainly the closest you will get, and one visit to this exclusive
restaurant will make you realise why it has, yet again, been awarded
2 AA Rossettes and 4 Good Food Guide stars in 2007 - the highest
for any restaurant in the city centre.
We've
read many prentious reviews of The French in other food guides labelling
it as old fashioned and out-dated for its silver service waiters
and formal approach. These reviews miss the point completely. The
Midland is Manchester's most historic hotel and despite the 5 star
openings across the city centre, it still remains the grandest.
The restaurant, from the decor right down to the service, reminds
you of a time when Henry Rolls first met Henry Royce in this very
same building. It gives you a feeling of importance that can't be
experienced anywhere else in the city centre yet, at the same time,
it can hardly be called stuffy - a label that could be attached
to the area's only Michelin star restaurant - as the Head Waiter
especially is friendly and inviting, with the clientelle a good
mix of business folk and hotel guests.
As
you'd expect from one of the city's most exclusive hotels, prices
aren't cheap. Appetizers range from £8 (Creamy Shellfish Bisque)
to £60 (Chateaubriand for two), whilst Entree's will set you
back £20 (Guinea Fowl Au Vin) upto £29 (Roasted Cutlet
of Lamb). Desserts are £8 each with the Cheese Board at £10.
There's a Tasting Menu at £75 per head for those with a wallet
as big as their belly and a Set Menu Gastronomique ranging from
£29 for two courses up to £45 for four. Platinum Hi-Life
card holders can take advantage of two meals for the price of one;
a saving that almost pays for the card itself. [click
here for info]
As
is the norm in most top restaurants across Europe, less so in the
UK, we received a wonderful dish 'courtesy of the chef', the Honey-glazed
Scallop was gorgeous and would have been my first choice as a starter
had it been on the menu. Instead I opted for the Tortellini of Woodland
Mushrooms, Corn fed Chicken and Black Truffles (£12.95). The
presentation was fantastic and the taste just divine. Highly recommended!.
In
between each course, the very formal black tied waiters each took
to their specific roles professionally - a bottle of Tuscan Morellino
red wine (£27.95) was allowed to breathe before being expertly
poured and a bottle of mineral water was chilled in ice. The couple
on the table next to us playfully asked the waiter if the chef had
forgotten them and it was at that point that we realised we'd also
been in the restaurant for over an hour and still hadn't received
our main course.
When
the main courses finally did arrive, in their silver trays, any
quarms about the delay were soon forgiven. The Guinea Fowl Au Vin
was superb whilst The Lakeland Beef with Rosti (£29) was the
best steak I've ever eaten in Manchester, making up for the initial
disappointment of receiving meat Rosti rather then the Swiss Potatio
Rosti I expected. The presentation was amazing and went someway
to explaining why each dish took so long to arrive. Impressive!
Overall,
The French deserves its reputation as the best fine dining restaurant
in Manchester city centre and is certainly the perfect restaurant
for that special occassion - like the Midland Hotel itself, it's
grandness and ambience provides a dining experience not to be forgotten.
Superb!"
- Manchester Restaurants 10/12/07 (visited on a thurs evening) |
